Mongolia Day 3: To the Gorkhi Terelji National Park

​Today we headed south east, following the trans Mongolian railway towards Beijing.  We made many stops along the way and ended our day in the Gorkhi- Terelji National Park.

We left the hotel around 10 in a giant bus (for the 8 of us on the tour).  After 30 minutes or so, we stopped at a local market to buy ingredients for our lunch.  Our objective was condensed milk and we had no idea of what it would look like, but with Google Translate and some friendly shopkeepers we were successful and really enjoyed the search. The market was really interesting too.  As this market is close to the edge of UB, a lot of people come in from the country to buy supplies, so they had HUGE chunks of meat to sell to people to last a month.  It was the cleanest meat market we have ever seen.

After another half hour drive, we arrived in the coal mining town of Nalaikh to spend the afternoon with a Khazakh family.  The mining company had recruited Kazakhs from Western Mongolia and elsewhere to come to work, so the town was a mix of different ethnic groups.  The mosques dominated this neighborhood marking it as a Kazakh area.

The lady of the house invited us into their ger, which is used mostly for entertaining, now that they have a brick house next door.  The room was COVERED in Kazakh embroidered cloth, pillows, rugs, and clothing.  It was quite amazing, especially as she had made most of the rugs and wall hangings and other things..

We were served a number of snacks (some more delicious and edible than others) and tea.  We learned their life story, and how this couple in their 70s had dedicated themselves to preserving and passing on their Kazakh culture to future generations.  They had all kinds of cool gear for the nomadic lifestyle - falconry equipment, camel baby carriers, etc.

We had a wonderful halal lamb noodle soup, as well as lamb and veggie dumplings. Then it was time for us to dress up as Kazakhs!  Lots of fun.

We also learned how to make the fried dough treat that the host lady made with the ingredients we got at the market.  She made dessert while her husband led the call to prayer at the mosque across the street. It was a great experience!

Heading toward the National park, we stopped at a cairn in a mountain pass, where they had eagles, vultures and bustards that you could get really close to.  How close you ask?  Well here is the evidence! We also walked three times around the cairn added to the rock pile and made a wish for safe travels.

At the Lodge/ger camp, we all got settled in our gers - learning to set up lighting, internet and heaters!

Then we headed out to another experience where we got to help a local semi-nomadic woman to make cheese.  We learned a LOT about how every molecule of milk from her three cows is used - as milk tea, yogurt, whey, cheese, milk vodka, and other products.  We tried all of these things and they were delicious.

Back at the ger camp, we had half an hour to relax.  The mountains were beautiful, and Cheryl enjoyed watching a herd of horses as they munched on flowers by the gate (until the manager chased them off).  

Then we had a lovely dinner (Ruth had steak and a delicious pile of fresh vegetables, but Cheryl had horse wrapped in eggplant, which she enjoyed.  Then home to bed.